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Views: 220 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2025-07-03 Origin: Site
Content Menu
● Understanding Vitamin C and Its Derivatives
● Chemical Structure and Stability
● Skin Penetration and Bioavailability
>> Antioxidant Capacity and Collagen Stimulation
>> Skin Brightening and Hyperpigmentation
● Summary Table: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Glucoside
Vitamin C and its derivatives have become essential ingredients in skincare due to their antioxidant properties and ability to brighten skin, stimulate collagen production, and protect against environmental damage. Among these derivatives, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside stand out for their enhanced stability and skin benefits compared to pure ascorbic acid. This article explores the chemical nature, stability, skin penetration, and effectiveness of these two vitamin C derivatives, helping consumers and formulators understand which might be better suited for their skincare needs.
Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin renowned for its antioxidant capacity. However, pure ascorbic acid is notoriously unstable when exposed to air, light, moisture, and varying pH levels, which limits its effectiveness in topical formulations. To overcome these challenges, scientists have developed several derivatives that improve stability and skin absorption.
Two popular derivatives are:
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid)
- Ascorbyl Glucoside
Both are designed to deliver the benefits of vitamin C while enhancing stability and reducing irritation.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is chemically similar to ascorbic acid but differs by having an ethyl group attached via an ether linkage to the oxygen atom on the ring structure. This modification makes the molecule more amphiphilic, meaning it has both water- and fat-loving properties, which facilitates better skin penetration.
In terms of stability:
- It is highly stable across different pH values, with optimal stability around pH 5.5.
- It resists degradation from oxygen and UV light reasonably well.
- Compared to other derivatives, it is slightly less stable than Ascorbyl Glucoside at higher temperatures but remains one of the most stable forms at room temperature.
- Its antioxidant capacity is about half that of pure ascorbic acid but roughly twice that of Ascorbyl Glucoside.
Ascorbyl Glucoside is formed by bonding ascorbic acid to a glucose molecule via an ether linkage. This makes it highly water-soluble but less lipophilic, which can limit skin penetration unless formulated appropriately.
Regarding stability:
- It is exceptionally stable in aqueous solutions, even at elevated temperatures.
- Most stable at a slightly higher pH of around 6.5.
- It is the most stable vitamin C derivative in the presence of metal ions and UV light.
- The glucose moiety protects the ascorbic acid from degradation caused by pH changes, temperature, and metal ions.
- Upon topical application, skin enzymes can hydrolyze Ascorbyl Glucoside to release active ascorbic acid and glucose, enabling its antioxidant effects.
The amphiphilic nature of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid allows it to penetrate the skin barrier more effectively than pure ascorbic acid or Ascorbyl Glucoside. This enhanced penetration means that it can deliver vitamin C more efficiently to deeper layers of the skin, where it can stimulate collagen synthesis and neutralize free radicals.
Being hydrophilic, Ascorbyl Glucoside does not easily penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of the skin on its own. However, it can be converted by skin enzymes into active ascorbic acid, which then exerts its beneficial effects. Formulators often use delivery systems to enhance its penetration.
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid has demonstrated strong antioxidant activity, though not as potent as pure ascorbic acid, but better than Ascorbyl Glucoside.
- It promotes collagen production effectively, improving skin elasticity and reducing signs of aging.
- Ascorbyl Glucoside also supports collagen synthesis and has been shown to inhibit melanin formation, contributing to skin brightening and reduction of hyperpigmentation.
Both derivatives are effective in reducing pigmentation and brightening the skin, but Ascorbyl Glucoside's ability to inhibit melanin synthesis is particularly noted in studies.
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, due to its amphiphilic nature, tends to cause less irritation compared to pure ascorbic acid.
- Ascorbyl Glucoside is generally well tolerated and also contributes to skin hydration when combined with other moisturizing agents.
- pH Sensitivity: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is most stable at slightly acidic pH (~5.5), while Ascorbyl Glucoside prefers a near-neutral pH (~6.5).
- Temperature: Both derivatives maintain stability at room temperature, but Ascorbyl Glucoside is more stable at higher temperatures.
- Packaging: Both require protection from light and air to maintain efficacy.
- Combination with Other Ingredients: Both can be combined with antioxidants like vitamin E to enhance stability and effectiveness.
| Feature | Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Ascorbyl Glucoside |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical Structure | Ascorbic acid + ethyl group (ether linkage) | Ascorbic acid + glucose (ether linkage) |
| Solubility | Amphiphilic (water & lipid soluble) | Hydrophilic (water soluble) |
| Optimal pH Stability | ~5.5 | ~6.5 |
| Temperature Stability | Stable at room temp; less stable at high temp than AG | Very stable even at elevated temperatures |
| UV & Oxygen Stability | Good | Excellent |
| Skin Penetration | High | Moderate (requires enzymatic conversion) |
| Antioxidant Capacity | Moderate (about half of ascorbic acid) | Lower than Ethyl Ascorbic Acid |
| Collagen Stimulation | Effective | Effective |
| Skin Brightening | Good | Excellent (melanin inhibition) |
| Irritation Potential | Low | Low |
1. Which derivative is better for sensitive skin?
Both Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside are less irritating than pure ascorbic acid, but Ascorbyl Glucoside's hydrophilic nature and enzymatic conversion make it very gentle, often preferred for sensitive skin.
2. Can these derivatives be used together in one product?
Yes, combining derivatives can provide complementary benefits, enhancing stability and efficacy, but formulation must ensure pH and ingredient compatibility.
3. How do these derivatives compare to pure ascorbic acid in terms of effectiveness?
Pure ascorbic acid has the highest antioxidant capacity but is unstable and irritating. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside offer improved stability and lower irritation with slightly reduced potency.
4. Are these derivatives effective in treating hyperpigmentation?
Yes, particularly Ascorbyl Glucoside, which inhibits melanin formation, making it effective for brightening and reducing pigmentation.
5. How should products containing these derivatives be stored?
To maintain stability, products should be stored in airtight, opaque containers away from heat and light.
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[6] https://patents.google.com/patent/CN113950246A/zh
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[8] https://blog.csdn.net/m0_68948518/article/details/129754899
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